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You might be able to get away with it, if you are really discreet. But we have heard reports of travelers having their tents confiscated by police. If you are going to risk camping, please wild camp. Don't ask some villager to allow you to pitch your tent outside their home. If the police get involved, it is the villager who is going to pay the higher price. I hope Myanmar progresses to the point where travelers are allowed to camp, but don't hold your breath. Money This one is a bit tricky.
You may have heard that you need US dollars. And not just any US dollars, but the kind of crisp, perfectly clean, unwrinkled dollars your grandparents gave to you in your birthday card when you were a kid.
It's true. We met a man from the U. Every single bill was rejected at banks and hotels alike. Now, it's not like his money was ripped and patched together with tape.
It looked just fine to us. That's how picky they are about your dollars. He was having to leave the country early, because, although he had a thousand dollars, he couldn't spend any of it. I went to eight different banks in Seattle to get the clean cash I needed for our trip.
One hundred dollar bills get the best rate, but it is best to carry some bills of all denominations for everyday transactions when you aren't paying in kyat. That said, everything is changing fast in Myanmar. Reports are that the Central Bank is now accepting bent and wrinkled US dollars. As long as you are dealing directly with the Central Bank. But you won't be. You'll be dealing with hotel clerks and shopkeepers. Until the message gets out to everyone and that's going to be awhile , don't enter Myanmar without really, really clean cash.
Budget This is a situation where the law of supply and demand has rapidly increased the cost of traveling in Myanmar. And we are talking basic rooms here.
No frills. When we left Inley Lake in mid-November , there were several tourists who couldn't find a single room available, and had spent the night sitting under a tree. We aren't ones to plan ahead, but if you are planning on traveling to Bagan or Inley Lake, make sure you call ahead to make a reservation at a hotel.
Cyclists often arrive late in the afternoon. By then, scores of backpackers and tourists will have scooped up every bed available. Internet Internet access has opened up in Myanmar. You'll find free WiFi offered at many hotels and guest houses. You presently cannot download a data package for your cell phone.
You can download a sim card, but only for making calls. This can be really helpful to make hotel reservations in advance. Routes Just wandering around Myanmar is difficult, due to the need to stay at a registered guest house.
It is possible to get around this.
But it is a bit of a crap shoot. We went to a monastery and were told we could stay. The monks were making up our room. Then the head master showed up and said it was not possible for us to stay.
We had to leave. He helped us flag down a truck the sun was setting and we got a ride to the next town city that had a hotel open to foreigners.
On another occasion, we pulled into a police station of a small town, and after calls and paperwork, we were hosted at the barracks. One of the policeman even bought us breakfast the next day. Many cyclists including us chose a route that included Mandalay, Bagan and Inley Lake. There are some back roads from Inley Lake to Mandalay that are really rough, but worth the effort.
Go now, or later? It is going to be crazy. If you don't already have a room at the major destinations … good luck.
Traveling in February or March of will see fewer tourists, and a lot more heat. A hard choice for a cyclist. Hopefully Myanmar will issue more guest house permits -- open more areas of the country to travel -- allow folks to pitch a tent now and then. Will Myanmar see tourism skyrocket even further?
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